... We expect many things of a good pan... First and foremost, it should be highly conductive, so that it heats food quickly and distributes hear evenly across the base (no hot spots!) It should balance well in the hand and be light and easy to maneuver on the stovetop, with a handle you can use without burning yourself. But we also want it to be dense and solid enough to withstand high heat without buckling, chipping, or cracking. The ideal pan should have surface that is nonreactive, nonstick, noncorrosive, easy to clean, and long lasting. It should have a pretty shape and sit well on the burner. Oh, and it shouldn't cost a fortune. Over and above all of this, a truly great pot has some quality -- impossible to quantify -- that makes it not just functional but lovable. Hello, old friend, you think, as you haul it out once again.
by Bee Wilson
because I don't think I could bear to use it if I did.}